We have been experimenting with printing transparencies to be used for UV exposure for both photopolymer platemaking and screen printing. Materials used so far:

• Canon Pixma TS6320
• Dye-based UV-blocking Ink and Refillable Cartridges from InkOwl
• Waterproof Transparent Inkjet Film from InkOwl

To avoid issues with print settings consistency between software programs and cut down on mistakes, I bought a full set of refillable cartridges and filled all 5 with UV-blocking black ink; this way the print is always black. The one thing that I still need to watch out for in my files is tint fills and/or fills that are not 100% opacity.

See sections below for info related to platemaking or screenmaking specifically.

If you are currently using any other ink, including original Epson or Canon ink, eliminating the old ink is required:

• Before beginning the conversion process, print a nozzle check to confirm that the printhead is working properly. Do not attempt to perform a conversion on a printer that is not printing correctly.
• Inject some of our black screenprinting ink into a set of refillable cartridges.
• Perform 5 Printhead Cleanings to eliminate the old ink.
• If the Nozzle Check pattern is mostly restored but not totally, wait 24 hours before continuing with Printhead Cleanings.

We have been experimenting with exposing KF95 photopolymer plate material with our DIY exposure box.

Notes:

• Print artwork reversed (with a black background) but not mirrored.
• For exposure, the “Golden rule” is Emulsion-to-Emulsion (Ink-to-Polymer). The printed ink/toner on the transparency must touch the raw polymer directly; if the ink side is facing up, the thickness of the plastic film itself will cause light to scatter, washing away fine details.

Coming soon.